Friday 12 July 2013

Food in History Conference

82nd Anglo-American Conference of Historians
Food in History
Senate House, 11-13 July 2013

From famine to feast, from grain riots to TV cookery programmes, dieting to domesticity, food features in almost every aspect of human societies since prehistoric times. At its annual summer conference in 2013 the Institute of Historical Research aims to showcase the best of current scholarly writing, research and debate on the subject. Our plenary lecturers include Ken Albala, Susanne Freidberg, Cormac Ó Gráda and Steven Shapin. The conference will include a publishers’ book fair, roundtable sessions and a policy forum.

Food in history conference Programme Committee

  • Sunil Amrith (Birkbeck)
  • David Gentilcore (Leicester)
  • Derek Keene (Centre for Metropolitan History, IHR)
  • Derek Oddy (Westminster)
  • Sara Pennell (Roehampton)
  • Miles Taylor (IHR)

2013 Programme – Day 1

Thursday 11 July
9.00am Registration
9.45am Welcome
Welcome from Professor Sir Adrian Smith, Vice-
Chancellor (University of London)
10.00 am Plenary lecture
Chair: David Gentilcore (University of Leicester)
Ken Albala (University of the Pacific), Toward a historical
dialectic of culinary styles
11.15am Parallel panel sessions
Chair: Andrea Tanner (Fortnum and Mason)
Ian Miller (University College Dublin), A Dangerous, Revolutionary Force amongst Us’: Conceptualizing Working-Class Tea Drinking in the British Isles, c.1860-1900

Matthew Smith (University of Strathclyde), The pre-history of food allergy: idiosyncrasies in the nineteenth centuryClare Gordon (University of Glasgow), The Path to the Pure Food and Drug Act: American Food Adulteration and Contamination from 1850 to 1906
Chair: Jennifer Wallis (Queen Mary, University of London)
Ilaria Berti (Università degli studi di Genova), ‘
Eat sparingly of all kinds of fruit’Bruna Gushurst-Moore (University of Plymouth), Gardens, foods, medicines: foods of the sickroom in nineteenth-century AmericaDeborah Levine (Providence College, Rhode Island), Therapeutic diets for pregnant women in maternity hospitals, 1880-1920
Chair: Margrit Schulte (Dusseldorf)
Margrit Schulte (Beerbühl)
, Transferring Sweet Secrets: Transnational connections in the European Chocolate IndustryJonathon Morris (University of Hertfordshire), The espresso menu: an international history
Craig Sams (Chocolatier, Founder, Green & Blacks), The
failure of the industrial cocoa plantation model and
renaissance of the small producer 1980–2012
Ruben Quass (Bielefeld),
Drinking Fair Trade Coffee,
Feeling Global Closeness?
Chair: Cornelie Usborne (Roehampton University/ Institute of Historical Research)
John Martin (DeMontfort University),
PotatoesDebra Reid (Eastern Illinois University), Canned cornClare Griffiths (University of Sheffield), Rhubarb
Chair: Peter Atkins (Durham University)
Maren Möhring (Centre for Contemporary History, Potsdam),
Transnational Food: The Dönerkebab in GermanyJernej Mlekuž (Slovenian Migration Institute), Not Just Food, but Food for Thought: A Short History of the Burek in SloveniaPanikos Panayi (De Montfort University), Antisemitism, Poverty and Britishness: The Identity of Fish and Chips
Chair: Christopher Currie (Institute of Historical Research)
Robert Alexander Hearn (Universita degli Studi di Genova),
Where the Wild Things Weren’t: the Re-wilding of Ligurian Culinary Landscapes, 1800-2012Malcolm Thick, Rabbit production (and consumption) in Eighteenth Century LondonMalcolm Thick, Rabbit production (and consumption) in
eighteenth-century London
Emma C Spary (University of Cambridge), The natural diet in eighteenth-century France, or, how to feed a wild child
12.45pm Lunch
        • Food history collections and archivesHannah Jenkinson (M&S Company Archive)
          Polly Russell (British Library)
          Andrea Tanner (Fortnum and Mason)
2.00pm Parallel panel sessions
Chair: Christopher Currie (IHR)
Molly Perry (The College of William and Mary, Williamsburg),
‘Flowing Bowls and Bumping Glasses’: Raising Toasts, Declaring Loyalty, and Protesting in the British EmpireLucy Dow (University College London), ‘Very Excellent Gingerbread’: Tracing the cultural influence of empire through eighteenth and nineteenth recipes for GingerbreadTroy Bickham (Texas A&M University), The edible map of mankind: food, the enlightenment, and imperialism in Britain
Chair: Carlos López Galviz (Institute of Commonwealth
Studies)
Melissa Calaresu (Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge),
Street food: Eating out in the early modern ItalyMarie-Adeline Guennec (Aix Marseille Université, France), Bibitur, estur quasi in popina : On food in Roman restaurantsFernando Notario (Universidad Complutense de Madrid), Eating the Cynic way: anti-cuisine, food and social identity in late classical Greece
Chair: Jonathan Morris (University of Hertfordshire) Angelika Epple (University of Bielefeld), Chocolate and
the invention of quality
Yavuz Köse (University of Hamburg), Chocolate and
coffee in the late Ottoman empire and Turkish republic
Tatsuya Mitsuda (Keio University, Tokyo), Domesticating
chocolate in Japan, c.1920–1960
Merry White (Boston University), Coffee Japanese style
Chair: Catherine Geissler (King’s College London)
Rachel Duffett (University of Essex),
Sustaining the man at the front, 1914-1918Peter Atkins (Durham University), What was the point of ‘British Restaurants’, 1940-1947?Derek Oddy (University of Westminster), Nutrition policy in the two World Wars: myths and realities
11. Roundtable session
Emma Spary (Cambridge), Eating the Enlightenment: food and the sciences in Paris, 1670-1760 (University of Chicago Press, 2012)
Chair (and discussant): Colin Jones (Queen Mary, University of London)
Brian Cowan (McGill University)
Anne Murcott (University of Nottingham)
Chair: Sara Pennell (Roehampton University)
Stef Eastoe (Birkbeck), ‘
Keep them quiet and tranquil’: Exploring the role of food in the long-stay asylumBartley Rock (UCL/SEESS), ‘Making a strict distinction in the degree of need’: Aid allocation by the local authorities in Tambov province during the 1891-92 Russian famineSally Osborn (Roehampton University), Food as medicine: Diet drinks in the eighteenth-century recipe book
3.30pm Refreshments
4.00pm Plenary lecture
Chair: Barry Smith (Institute of Philosophy)
Steven Shapin (Harvard), You Are What You Eat: Historical Changes in Ideas about Food and Identity
6.00pm Conference reception

2013 Programme – Day 2

Friday 12 July
9.00am Registration
9.30am Parallel panel sessions
Chair: Derek Keene (Centre for Metropolitan History/Institute of Historical Research)
Chris Dyer (University of Leicester),
Wastel or treet? Buying daily bread in late medieval EnglandUmberto Albarella (University of Sheffield), Meat consumption in medieval England: the archaeological evidence from low status rural sitesChris Woolgar (University of Southampton), From hochepot to chitterling: peasant cuisine in late medieval England
Chair: Phil Withington (Sheffield University)
Tom Nichols (Glasgow University),
Double vision: the ambivalent imagery of drunkenness in early modern EuropeRebecca Earle (University of Warwick), Indians and Drunkenness in Colonial Spanish AmericaAngela McShane (Victoria & Albert Museum), A ‘Profane Sacrament’: Cups of Caritas in Seventeenth Century England
Chair: Rachel Ritchie (Brunel)
Janis Thiessen (Winnepeg),
Canadian Snack Foods: Old Dutch Potato Chips and Hawkins CheeziesMatthew Broker (North Carolina State University), Shifting Tides: Oysters and Social Class in Urban AmericaLaura Ishiguro (University of British Columbia), ‘Scramble and Gobble at the Camp Table’: Settler Colonial Narratives of Eating in a Global British Columbia, 1858-1914
Chair: David Feldman (Birkbeck)
Mark Aloisio (University of Malta),
Regulation, Manipulation and Anti-Jewish Rhetoric in the Meat Markets of Medieval SicilyAlexander Chase-Levenson (Princeton University), Food, Sensation, and Exoticism in Nineteenth-Century British Narratives of TravelRonald Ranta (University College London), De-Arabising and Re-Arabising Israeli Food
Chair: Andrea Tanner (Fortnum and Mason)
Lara Anderson (University of Melbourne),
The emergence of Spanish culinary nationalism: Dr Thebussem and the king’s chefMaggie Andrews (University of Worcester), Cooking Up a Performance: Fanny Craddock and Food Preparation in British Broadcasting
Chair: Cornelie Usborne (Roehampton University/ Institute of Historical Research)
Kate Ferris (University of St Andrews),
Constructing the empire’s home front: shopkeepers, housewives and the politics of food in fascist Venice during the Ethiopian WarLisa Pine (Southbank University), Food in Nazi Germany: Consumption, Education and Propaganda in Peace and WarSimone C De Santiago Ramos (University of North Texas), Substitute Recipes in National Socialist Germany
11.00am Refreshments
11.30am Parallel panel sessions
Chair: Alexandra Sapoznik (King’s College London)
Martin Jones, Xinyi Liu and Emma Lightfoot (University of Cambridge), Food globalization in Prehistory: evidence from crops, bones and isotopes
Marijke van der Veen (University of Leicester), The Roman and Medieval Spice Trade: early globalisation
20. Roundtable session
Deborah Valenze (Barnard College, New York), Milk: a local and global history (Yale University Press, 2011)
Chair: Phil Withington
Frank Trentmann (Birkbeck)
Derek Oddy (University of Westminster)
Karen Hunt (Keele University)
Chair: Kelly Boyd (Institute of Historical Research)
Brian Cowan (McGill University),
Café or Coffeehouse? Trans-national Histories of Coffee and SociabilityBrenda Assael (Swansea University), The Restaurant, Transnationalism and Food Cultures in Modern Britain
Chair: Janet Hunter (LSE)
Penelope Francks (University of Leeds),
Rice as Luxury: Food and Comparative Living Standards in JapanHelen Macnaughtan (SOAS), Consuming Rice in Post-War Japan: The Electric Rice Cooker and Japanese HousewivesHarald Fuess (Heidelberg University), Beer as a transcultural commodity in Japan and East Asia
23. Roundtable session
Rebecca Earle (Warwick), The body of the Conquistador: food, race and the colonial experience in Spanish America, 1492-1700 (Cambridge University Press, 2012)
Chair: Christopher Dyer (Institute of Historical Research)
Linda Newson (King’s College London/ Institute for the Study of the Americas)
Barry Ife (Guildhall School of Music and Drama)
Rachel Berger (Concordia University)
Chair: Adam Chapman (VCH/IHR)
James Hooper (King’s College London),
Inflaming and Subduing the Body: The Role of Food and Denial in Late Antique & Early Medieval Eastern AsceticismStuart Palmer (University of Kent), The Fall and Rise of Fasting during the Early ReformationLouise Carson (University of Nottingham), ‘For the honour of our nation’: new research on the sugar banquet at the court of Henry VIIIHeather Hess (Independent Art Historian/ Rutgers University, New Jersey), The Carcass, Civilized:Transforming Flesh into Meat at Seventeenth-Century German Banquets
1.00pm LUNCH
      • Policy forumThe politics of food: past, present and future
Chair: Frank Trentmann (Birkbeck/Institute of Sustainable consumption, University of Manchester)
David Barling (Centre for Food Policy, City University)
Annabel Allott (Soil Association)
Keir Waddington (University of Cardiff) Craig Sams (Green & Blacks)
2.00pm Plenary lecture
Chair: Derek Oddy (University of Westminster)
Susanne Friedberg (Dartmouth College), Moral economies and the cold chain
3.00pm Parallel panel sessions
Chair: Rachel Berger
Rachel Berger (Concordia University, Montreal), ‘
I can’t believe it’s not ghee: regulating food in late Colonial India’Isaka Riho (University of Tokyo), Reconstructing culinary practices in colonial India: Cooks, memsahibs and the Indian middle classYamane So (Osaka University), A Study of the Sophisticated Terms in the Urdu Writings on Cuisine Culture under the British Raj
Chair: Christina von Hodenberg (QUeen Mary, University of London)
Jelena Ivaniševic (Institute for Ethnological and Folklore Research),
Civilising a brave new world: Croatian cooking and table manners in 1950′sNafsika Papacharalampous (SOAS), Invented traditions and national foods of Greece: the role of cookery booksMarta Sikorska (Nicolaus Copernicus University, Poland), German or Polish? A Nuremberg cookery book from 1671Dorota Lewandowska (Nicolaus Copernicus University, Torun), Drinking like a Pole. Popular images of drinking habits in Poland from the early modern ages until the beginning of the 19th century
Chairs: Geoffrey Kron (University of Victoria)
Wim Broekaert (University of Ghent),
Efficiency-enhancing strategies in the Roman wine trade: from producer to consumerClaire Holleran (University of Exeter), ‘With a single as, you can drink here; if you pay two asses, you will drink better; if you pay four asses, you will drink Falernian wine’ (CIL IV 1679, Pompeian graffito): the retailing of wine in Roman ItalyPaul Erdkamp (Vrije Universiteit Brussel), The consumption of wine in Roman Italy
Chair: Ken Albala (University of the Pacific)
Samuel Delwen (Institute of Archaeology, London),
Archaeology and the exploration of ancient breadRichard Fitch (Historic Kitchens, Hampton Court Palace), Our Ech Day Bred – Bread in the late medieval & early post medieval periodWilliam Rubel (Independent scholar), Take 2 Spoonfuls of New Barm – A Dictionary of British, French, and American Baking Terms circa 1550 to 1880
Chair: James Lees (IHR)
John Bohstedt (University of Tennessee, Knoxville),
The Politics of Provisions: The Food Riots of 2007-08 in Historical ContextsBrodie Waddell (Birkbeck), The Politics of Hunger and the Revolution of 1688
Chair: Adriana Turpin (IESA)
Mikhail Suprun (The Northern Arctic Federal University, Arkhangelsk),
Food Lend-Lease Aid to Russia during The Second World WarPavel Vasilyev (St. Petersburg Institute of History of the Russian Academy of Sciences),Reassessing the Black Market in Food and Food Cards in Besieged Leningrad (1941-1944)
4.30pm Refreshments
5.00pm Plenary lecture
Chair: Matthew Davies (CMH/IHR)
Cormac O’Grada (University College Dublin), Famine is not the problem: an historical perspective
 
 

2013 Programme – Day 3

Saturday 13 July
9.00am Registration
9.30am Parallel panel sessions
Chair: Adam Chapman (VCH/IHR)
Birgit Ricquier (Royal Museum for Central Africa, Belgium), Kongo Cuisine and the Columbian Exchange: Lexical Evidence for Culinary Transformations at the West-Central African Coast, and Beyond
Chair: Rachel Rich (Leeds University)
Nelleke Teughels (Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium),
Small Grocery Stores Become Big Business: Delhaize Frères & Cie and the Modernisation of the Traditional Corner ShopWillem Scheire (Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium), Innovations in Food Preservation: The Domestic Refrigerator in EuropeOlivier de Maret (Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Belgium), Setting a Trend? Italian Food Businesses in Late-Nineteenth-Century Brussels
Chair: Laurel Sefton MacDowell (University of Toronto)
David Fouser (University of California, Irvine),
From Abernethys to Zoologicals: Industry, Environment, and Culture in British Biscuits, 1830-1914Chris Otter, White Bread Britain: Wheat, Technology and Globalization 1850-1950David Zylberberg (York University), Potatoes, Broths and Wheaten Breads: Fuel Prices and Yorkshire Regional Diets, 1790-1830
Chair: Shane Hamilton (University of Georgia)
Chris Deutsch (University of Missouri), ‘O
ne Line of Defense against the Spread of Foreign Contagious Disease’: Regulating Industrial Beef in California, 1945 to 1960Josie Freear (University of Leeds), Exploring the role of government policy and regulation in shaping the British diet from 1947Megan Elias (Queensborough Community College), Counterculture Cuisine in the 1970s
Chair: Tim Hitchcock (University of Hertfordshire)
Jeremy Boulton, & Romola Davenport (Newcastle University/University of Cambridge),
Food, drink and diet in the Georgian Workhouse: St Martin in the Fields, 1725-1830Susannah Ottaway (Carleton College), Food and the Eighteenth-Century Workhouse
Chair: Catherine Delano-Smith (Queen Mary, University of London)
Bryce Evans (Liverpool Hope University), ‘
The Most Important Thing in the World’: Food and its Role in Global ConflictIan Miller (University College Dublin), Did Ireland nearly starve during the First World War?Charles Read (Christ’s College, Cambridge), Hunting for Giffen Goods in 1840s Irish Market Data
11.00am Refreshments
11.30am Parallel panel sessions
Chair: Kelly Boyd (Institute of Historical Research)
Robert M Hutchings (Carnegie Mellon University),
Demands of Domesticity: Why Americans Drank Frozen Concentrated Orange Juice in the 1950sTani Mauriello (University of Oxford), If Vacuums Meant ‘More Work for Mother’, Did Dishware Mean Less Food For Mother? The relationship between an increased material standard of living and nutritional inequality for women in nineteenth-century BritainHelen Peavitt (Science Museum, London), From the daily pint to ‘Jamaican jiggers’: repositioning the domestic refrigerator within the home
Chair: Sunil Amrith (Birkbeck)
Angela Davis (University of Warwick), The resurgence in
breastfeeding: infant feeding in Britain, c.1945–2000
Caroline Durand (Trent University, Canada), Cooking for
the French-Canadian nation: governing with nutrition
in the province of Quebec, 1900–1945
Jane Hand (University of Warwick), From ‘look after
yourself’ to ‘look after your heart’: the role of nutrition
and consumerism within health education in the UK,
1973–1991.
Chair: TBC
Carolyn Cobbold (University of Cambridge),
How a new chemical palette of dyes coloured the palate of an industrialising nationTom Scott-Smith (University of Oxford), The rise of emergency feeding: technological foodstuffs in disaster and war, 1914-2013
Chair: Adam Chapman (VCH/IHR)
Lucinda Byatt (University of Edinburgh),
Florentine Treatises on Food and Household Management in mid-sixteenth century RomeSarah Peters Kernan (The Ohio State University), Social Aspirations and the New Audience for Cookeries in Late Medieval EnglandSarah Fox (University of Manchester), ‘The Usual Cheer’: the role of food in early modern childbirth
Chair: Lynne Walker (IHR)
Rachel Rich (Leeds Trinity),
Mealtimes and domesticity: Victorian women and the shape of the dayLucy A Bailey (University of Northampton), Squire, shopkeeper and staple food: The reciprocal relationship between the village shop and the country house in the early nineteenth centuryRebecca Ford (University of Nottingham), The Watercress Girl and the Watercress Garden: Cultural Landscapes of Watercress in the 19th-century
Chair: Tom Smith (Royal Holloway, University of London)
Michael Kauffmann (Courtauld),
Imagery of food in the BibleAllison D Fizzard (University of Regina), ‘A Competent Mess’: Food and Retirement at Religious Houses in England and Wales, c. 1485-1540
Katherine Harvey (Birkbeck), Food, Drink and the Episcopal Body
1.00pm END OF CONFERENCE

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